Sunday, 24 July 2011

Featured Product: Tinted Moisturizer

This is a bronzer, foundation and moisturizer in one jar. Made from perilla seed oil, aloe vera gel juice, beeswax, earthy extracts, vitamins, essential oils and mica, this product is sure to thrill you. Apply a small amount with a make-up sponge and work into the skin close to the hairline and down the neckline to give yourself a natural, healthy, glowing, tanned look while moisturizing your skin for up to 24 hours.

Lotions

What are lotions?
Lotions are cream, gel orjelly formulations designedto sit on the skin andpromote soft, smooth, moisturized skin. There are also specialized lotions such as sun screen lotions, after-sun lotions, lotions that deliver medication into the skin, lotions that relieve itching, lotions that soothe after insect bites, and others.
How do lotions differ from moisturizers?
Moisturizers are designed for facial skin, which has different needs because signs of aging are visible earlier than on body skin. Moisturizers contain ingredients to combat anti-aging and provide the right facial texture. Lotions do as well but the requirements are not as intense as for facial skin. Body skin is thicker and less porous and has different physical demands on it, so it demands different treatment.
What ingredients are found in lotions?
Lotions are usually creams that can be of thick or thin consistency. The creams consist of a combination of a water-based component mixed with oil-based or butter-based ingredients, bound together by a wax-based component, and preservatives, with optional fragrance added.
Water as an ingredient makes the lotion go rancid quickly and since Nen’s does not use artificial preservatives, we do not use water in our lotions. Instead, we use Hydrosols, which give the lotion more stability and a more pleasant scent to boot.
Our oils are natural and cold-pressed plant oils. We do not use animal fats such as emu oil or lard. Our oils and butters provide nurturing and softening properties but they also moisturize superbly.
Most commercial lotions use emulsifying wax to bind the water and oil components. Emulsifying wax results from mixing a plant or petroleum-based wax with detergent (e.g., sodium dodecyl sulfate, poly-sorbates, etc.). We do not use emulsifying wax. Instead, we use natural ingredients such as beeswax and borax. Beeswax is a humectant, which means it draws and seals in moisture. Borax provides stability to the lotion so that waters and oils do not separate. Our borax is isolated from plant sources.
There are no artificial fragrances in Nen’s Naturals products. Our lotions are naturally scented by the combination of natural ingredients. We do not use artificial preservatives in our skin care products. Certain oils, essential oils, and vitamin E are effective natural preservatives.
How should lotions be used?
Lotions should be used daily to keep the skin moist, soft and smooth. Most municipal water hardens skin, relative to, for example, rain water or pure spring water. Lotions step in to soften skin. Lotions can also be used for massage and can be applied to hair ends to curb splitting.
If a lotion does not absorb quickly, you are using too much. If your palms feel too greasy, they are not in need of so much lotion. Simply rub a tissue between your palms to remove unneeded lotion. Palms are less porous than other areas of the body, so they require less moisture. Regular use will give you a feel for the amount of lotion to use.
How do you choose the best lotion for you?
The obvious answer is to choose whatever works for you. However, there are ingredients that provide more benefits for certain skin types.

Featured Ingredient: Bergamot

The Bergamot orange that grows in Italy is a rather small orange that with a “nipple”. It is a cross between a pear lemon and the Seville orange. Grown elsewhere (e.g., Ivory Coast, Morocco, Tunisia), the Bergamot orange may represent a cross between the pear lemon and the grapefruit. The word ‘Bergamot’ also refers to the tree on which this orange grows, a tree whose origins stem back to South East Asia.
Essential oil of Bergamot, Citrus bergamia, is cold pressed from the peel of the Bergamot orange from Italy. This is the same substance with which Earl Grey Tea is infused to give it that characteristic aroma. In some countries, marmalade is made from the candied peel of the very sour bergamot orange.
Apart from its culinary uses, Bergamot remains one of perfumery’s most appreciated essential oils. It has been an aroma ingredient as far back as the 1600’s when cologne was introduced in the town of Cologne, Germany. The aroma can be described as a middle note citrus aroma with qualities of sweetness, fruitiness, and spiciness, an alluring combination, to say the least.
Bergamot is reputed to have more than just a pleasant aroma. It is revered for its aroma therapeutic contributions to the treatment of depression, stress, tension, fear, hysteria, anorexia, psoriasis, eczema and all types of skin infections (note: we do not recommend that you discontinue prescribed medication without consultation with the professional who prescribed it).
Uplifting Bergamot essential oil contains natural linool and linalyl acetate which have sedative properties perfect for combating anxiety.
Bergamot essential oil has antiseptic properties because its constituent, linool, is also antibacterial.
Bergamot contains bergaptene, a natural substance that produces its characteristic scent, but it can cause skin irritation in some people.
In addition, Bergamot increases the propensity for one’s skin to burn, so it is best applied when one doesn’t have to be out in the sun. It does make for a great and uplifting early morning or evening scent. Bergamot must never be used on skin ‘neet’ or undiluted, although it is safe when diluted in oils and other media such as lotions and splashes.
Nen’s Bergamot Products
Bergamot is used in several of Nen’s Naturals products because of its aroma, which is citrus-like but in a fruity, floral, subtly spicy way, making for an exotic scent.
It is featured in our Bliss Incense and is the star ingredient in our Citrus Grove Perfume Oil. Bergamot also plays a role in several of our soaps and is a noteworthy ingredient in Vanilla Fields Shower Gel and our Shampoo ‘A’: Rainfall (for dry and flaky hair). Actually, ‘noteworthy’ is not complimentary enough of a word for the exotic sensory effects of Bergamot.
Our Meadows Lotion features Bergamot essential oil and, once you try it, you will be no less than enamoured with it. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!
Note: The Bergamot discussed above is not to be confused with the wild Bergamot plant, Monarda fistulosa, also known as Bee Balm, a member of the mint family.

Cosmetic Labels . . . continued

Azulene is the natural compound in chamomile responsible for its intense blue colour and soothing properties. There are few known allergies to azulene, but those suffering from allergies such as to ragweed pollen, sunflower or aster should exercise caution as azulene inhibits histamine discharge.
Bismuth oxychloride is inorganic. Since bismuth, like many other cosmetic ingredient components, is a part of the periodic table of elements, many are trusting of its nature. However, it is a highly toxic and allergenic colourant. So, why do many manufacturers (not Nen’s) use it in their mineral or colour make-up? Shine = profit.
Borax is a salt that comes from boric acid occurring in nature, our water supply, mineral water, and other sources. It can also be made synthetically. Do labels distinguish which is the real version? They do not. Borax is used in skin products and other cosmetics. In lotions, it provides stability and smoothness. Penetration into skin is negligible.
d-Alpha-tocopherol is an oily form of Vitamin E and is readily isolated from plant sources. It has preservative, anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties because it attacks those destructive free radicals.
Iron oxide is inorganic because it does not come from the animal or plant kingdom. However, it is naturally occurring in hematite and magnetite, so in terms of naturalness, don’t let “inorganic” throw you on this one. It is used in colour cosmetics in combination with mica mineral pigments to create various shades and allow colour to transfer to skin.
Guar gum is extracted from a leguminous (bean-producing) shrub Cyampsis tetragonoloba. In cosmetic preparations, it acts as a thickener, stabilizer and gel former.
Selenium sulphide (selenium disulphide) is a chemical compound used in some popular anti-dandruff and anti-fungal remedies. However, while selenium is toxic to fungi, it is also toxic to humans, and it may dry out skin and cause hair loss.
Stearic acid is an organic fatty acid that can be derived from animal (e.g., beef fat) and vegetable (e.g., cocoa butter) sources. Labels do not distinguish the exact source. It is used as a lubricant in cosmetics, deodorant sticks, toothpastes and as a soap hardener.
Ultramarine blue (also called “azure blue”) is an inorganic blue pigment used in mineral make-up and hair dyes. It is naturally occurring in the gem, lapis lazuli. It is also manufactured, although the synthetic version is not nearly as bright. It can be derived from animals, but usually is derived from kaolin (clay) which is treated with high temperature to create raw blue colour.
Witch hazel distillate results from the distillation of Hamamelis virginiana shrub’s leaves, twigs and bark to capture its natural oils for toiletries. It is a powerful astringent, toner and conditioner for skin and is used in hemorrhoid treatment.
Here are some basic conclusions we hope you will draw:
[1] Always read labels - you may be surprised about the contents of that bottle or jar you are so excited to open. If nothing else, check for substances to which you may develop an allergic reaction, animal content, synthetic chemicals, known toxins, and cautions, especially if pregnant, nursing or diagnosed with a medical condition.
[2] Labels do not always allow you to distinguish between natural and non-natural, organic and inorganic, and animal and botanical sources. Inquire further.
[3] Labels do not always allow you to tell if ingredients are safe. Even natural ingredients can create allergic reactions and problem symptoms. Be aware of substances to which you react negatively. “Toxins” are never identified – stay informed!
So how do you ever know what you are putting on your skin, your largest and most porous organ that drains right into your lymph system? Ask questions and don’t settle for silence in return. If you don’t get satisfactory answers, discontinue use of the product until you are sure you understand its composition. Knowledge is power. Read as much as you can. Educate yourself about ingredients so you can make sound decisions about which cosmetic products you will use. Then you will look great, feel great and stay great!

Cosmetic Labels

Cosmetic Labels
We will now examine ingredients commonly found on labels of commercial and “natural” cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes (not ours). In so doing, we will examine two questions showing why label contents require diligent scrutiny even though they do not tell it all.
Question 1: How can you tell if an ingredient is from an animal source? The best answer to that is to look at some animal parts that are used for cosmetic purposes.
Ambergris is a waxy, sweet and earthy smelling substance expelled or removed from the stomach of sperm whales. It is a highly sought after and expensive ingredient in perfumery. One synthetic compound that mimics the fragrance of ambergris is ambrox, comprised in part of a fragrant component generally isolated from the clary sage plant, but there are other sources. At one time banned under mammal protection legislation in various countries, it is now permitted because whales expel it. We just hope nobody is forcing whales to expel it.
Carmine (also called cochineal, Natural Red 4, Crimson Lake, etc.) is an ingredient found in lipstick, rouge and other cosmetics where red or pink colour is desired. It is obtained by extracting carminic acid by boiling dried insects in water, then treating the acid with other substances to create a deep red colour. We bet you’re glad you’re reading this!
Castoreum is a substance arising out of the castor sacs (anal glands) of the mature male beaver, believed to be secreted when beavers marked their territories. It is used in some perfumes and has been reputed to have aphrodisiacal effects. At various times in history, castoreum was used to induce abortions and to treat epilepsy and other aliments.
Lanolin is glandular secretion from sheep, isolated from its wool. It takes the wool of one large sheep to isolate about a cup of lanolin. A scouring process is used to separate the wool from the lanolin, sweat salts and impurities. Since lanolin is wax-like and contains skin-soothing properties, it has found a home in cosmetic preparations. Many skin care and lip balm products contain lanolin, but many people are allergic to it and it can clog pores.
Musk is the substance obtained from the male musk deer gland located between its genitals and stomach. It has been an expensive and much sought-after ingredient in perfumery and has been touted as an aphrodisiac. The deer must be killed for the musk to be removed and many deer are required to produce a small quantity of musk. One category was created by reacting certain compounds with aluminum chloride, but these artificial musk compounds were found to be toxic and unstable. Others called polycyclic musks were used in laundry detergents until scientists discovered that they disrupted human cell metabolism and changed human cell structure. A further class was the macrocyclic musks, but those fell out of use because the scent was not detectable by about half the population. Most musk scent today is artificial and we’ll leave it at that.
Operculum is a powder made from snail shells and other mollusc species and is commonly used as a scent fixative to make incense. High quality, and expensive operculum has a fragrance reminiscent of musk, while inexpensive, low quality operculum smells like burnt hair.
Umbilical Extract is extracted from the mammalian umbilical cord and used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning properties. Other mammalian parts are udder extract, brain extract, collagen (not marine), extract, elastin, embryo extract, heart extract, liver extract, mammary (breast) extract, marrow extract, muscle extract, neural extract, placental enzymes and protein, spleen extract, stomach extract, and testicular extract.
Animals parts are used in skin care and other cosmetic preparations for their properties and inexpensive availability. Skin product manufacturers in Canada must list ingredients but many continue to use animal parts because people just don’t bother reading labels.
Perfumers are not legislated to list ingredients, only to label contents as “fragrance”. So you just never know what you’re going to get with that sweet, seductive aroma. Life is like a box of . . . never mind.

Featured Ingredient: Mica

Mica is that beautiful rock pictured above. It is found in Canada, India, China, Finland, and other countries. The name “mica” comes from the Latin word micare, meaning “to shine”, referring to its luster. Sometimes mica is referred to as cat-gold, cat-silver, glimmer or glist. Mica’s luster is vitreous to pearly, so they are very valuable in cosmetic applications. Sericite, a type of mica, is silky to the touch.
The use of mica mineral pigments for cosmetic applications dates back to ancient times. Cleopatra was one of its more famous users. Today, mineral make-up is so popular, it seems to be taking over the demand for synthetic dyes - and rightfully so! Mica is resistant to ultraviolet light, heat, weather and chemical attack. Moreover, this soft mineral adheres well to skin without penetrating the skin barrier.
There are 37 different mica minerals. The type used in our products is muscovite or potassium mica. Mica crystals are transparent to translucent and can be white, silver, yellow, green and brown in their natural state.
Coating mica with iron oxides, derived from another rock, magnetic hematite or magnetite, results in many pigment colours. Clays absorb moisture and provide cleansing effects and are used as fillers. Corn starch and rice powder are used to absorb oils so you don’t get those greasy creases over your eyelids. Mica mineral pigments are safe natural colourants - and abundant and beautiful indeed.
Mica eye shadow and powder bronzers are durable and last throughout the day, often through one swim. Similarly, micas immersed in cream formulations often last an entire day!

Nen’s Mineral Make-up
Mica is featured in several of Nen’s mineral make-up products. The most notable are the eye shadows and bronzers, and April reveals a whole new series of spectacular colours. They are natural products compromised of corn starch, rice powder, clay, iron oxide, zinc oxide and mica. In some cases, we use titanium dioxide for greater colour options, which are not nanoparticles so they are too big to penetrate the skin. Our Tinting Moisturizer is an all-in-one cream foundation and moisturizer and is very popular! Our newest product, Lip Balm with Colour, is all the rage. It is a nurturing lip balm that provides subtle, classy, natural-looking colour. If you haven’t tried these products, you are truly missing out on something fabulous.
24-hour Mature Skin Moisturizer
Here is a breakdown of some of the active ingredients and how they work to diminish the signs of aging.
Marine Collagen - aids in the healing and restructuring of connective tissue that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Lactic acid, a by-product of vegetable (corn) fermentation - speeds up cell renewal and helps regulate pH
Cucumber peel extract - enhances hydration and tightens skin
Cucumber seed extract - reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Vitamin A - prevents dryness and flakiness
Vitamin E - with its moisturizing and antioxidant properties, reduces inflammation and assists in repairing skin
Coenzyme Q10 - moisturizes and allows better moisture barrier repair
Essential Oils (EO’s) of carrot seed, geranium, and lavender provide additional benefits to help provide a more polished, more youthful appearance.
If you are 30+, start your journey of rejuvenation without delay.
Look great, feel great,be great!